Thanatos, my yet greatest mountain free climb

There are events in life that becomes a landmark or a mile-post. Events you will always carry with you as a personal memory that truly stands out. This weekend at Baugen, I realized a big dream when achieving the toughest ascent I've ever done in traditional free climbing: I onsighted one of the king lines of Baugen, the Thanatos, 7+. 

The Thanatos crux is a 45 m "never ending" crack, slightly overhanging and on the 4th pitch. It's one of these rock formations that you easily lay your eyes on, it has a special beauty and gives most climbers a striking impression.

Thanatos 7+ crack is in the yellow part to the right, a hand-to-fist size of crack with "El Cap" proportions the guidebook says. On the 4th pitch you surely feel the air especially as the crack is overhanging

The first time I saw it 3 years ago I was not even close to start dreaming about it, just the thought was intimidating. Since then, the more I've climbed on Baugen, the more the rock has taught me and this year I felt ready.

One protection in, the whole rack of gear was pretty much needed apart from the grey Camalot #4

When we reached up to the start of the Thanatos 4th pitch I told Gorm that this was a dream coming true, no matter outcome. The 7+ crack was just infront of us and invited me to climb in the evening sun. The feeling when topping out successfully was undescribable. My body exhausted but my heart filled with intense happiness. I had to cry out the joy!

45 meters, slightly overhanging, powerful hand to fist jamming. This is the Thanatos 7+.

Thank you Gorm Gunleiksrud for being apart of this big day, for your patience, love and courage. And to my friend Silje Sanderud Haaland for giving me the inspiration - you are a role model in our community of climbing and your previous on-sight ascent was fantastic!

On the cover of the Kvaløya climbing guidebook you can see the Swedish top climber Erik Massih climbing at Thanatos. Here are some more pictures from the weekend. A weekend that will always represent a special event in my life of climbing.

The majestic rock walls of Baugen, the yellow sections of Thanathos (5, 6-, 6, 7+, 4) in the right part of the wall. Baugen is home for some of the best rock climbing routes I know. Like in example Flygende Hollender and Halvmånerisset.

Gorm is starting out on the first pitch, the Thanatos crack seen high above.

On the lower pitches of Thanatos, starting out on a big adventure

 

I'm climbing on the vertical 6- on the 2nd pitch. Getting closer towards the big challenge...

The first meters...knowing that you have another thirthy to go after the "horizon". In this place, Camalots are your best friend!

The spectacular crack formation of Thanatos on the 4th pitch at the Baugen rock wall.

Gorm, my solid rock in life: Thank you for sharing this adventure!

Up there :-)

Thanatos was the symbol of death in the Greek mythology. Up at Baugen, I think it is a symbol of life, will and climbing-spirits. You feel very much alive when you are up there: the heart beats strong!

Happy to reach the top of the crux pitch, only a grade 4 pitch left!

 Grateful, happy, proud, thankful, excited, pumped!