Alpine Passion: Chamonix and Aosta: climbing and dealing with weather

It has been a fantastic summer so far, and such an intense one too. I have been on the road most times, climbing in Norway, the Alps and discovering areas where I've never placed my foot before. Mountains are the big objective for most of my journeys. To go climbing is a lot about launching yourself into an adventure, and deal with the elements of nature.

Two weeks in Chamonix negotiating with the weather...
July: Back in Chamonix to go climbing with my good longtime friend Ulrika Dahlgren.
Ulrika and I have shared the passion for climbing and friendship for many years. This summer we had planned a good portion of climbing together in the Chamonix Massif.

We started out by refreshing the glacier rescuing skills (in hope that they will not have to be practised) during an organized rescue training day by the Chamoniarde.

For the modest amount of 40 euro you can join the 1 day rescue course designed for people who are already autonomous in mountain terrain (see link above). I highly recommend this security day for every alpine climber. To practise and refresh rescue techniques is never waisted time and you can learn something new too :-) !

Julien and Ulrika practising glacier rescue techniques with the Aiguille de Chardonnet in the background

It is sad to witness the yearly changes and retraction of the glaciers. The consequence of global warming and pollution, especially in the valley of Chamonix, surely have a big impact on the process. The glaciers are melting fast.. For us travelling on the glaciers, the risque of falling into a crevasse gets more important when the snow bridges are undermined and the bergshrunds get more complicated to pass.

The upcoming first days in Chamonix were wet. The bad weather set in and we made a couple of tries to do something, but when the window of opportunity is small, it is difficult to fulfill your dreams.

The hanging glacier of Aiguille du Plan, will it be there in 15-20 years?

Aiguille du Midi, south face
After days of climbing in the rain, some frustration and obsessive following on the weather forecast, we finally got a fantastic day at altitude.

We woke up in time to get the first cabin up to Aiguille du Midi, walked down the snow ridge and onto the Geant glacier in direction of the south face of Aiguille du Midi. The popular Rebuffat-route invited us to start as team number 2 after two English climbers. Ulrika and I had a great day at Midi and it was wonderful to finally get to climb at altitude!

The prominent granite walls of the Aiguille du Midi S face, the top station seen at 3842m altitude

Ulrika climbing high above the glacier

Friends on the south face! Ulrika and I with Mt Blanc far behind

About time to get back down from the Geant glacier before the thunder comes in

The weather proved to be the major challenge also the following days and we felt like warriors, doing our best to tackle the unstable sky, thunderstorms and rain. We had to choose carefully what to do and try to stay away from lightening and thunder. You do not want to be on the mountain when the elements roar and flashes around you!
So instead of looking for the big adventures, we got to open our eyes for other opportunities such as the nice and short alpine climb on Petite Aiguille Verte.

The ridges of Petite Aigulle Verte with the big sister Aiguille Verte in the clouds

A busy Petite Verte day, check the top ridge!

I'm ready to leave the snow and climb onto the east ridge of sweet rock!

Gorm on the top ridge of Petite Verte, pretty much describes the various conditions and sky...

I can highly recommend a visit to Petite Aiguille Verte as it offers a nice variation of techniques to use, terrain and different choices of progression. Gorm had arrived to Chamonix and we climbed the East ridge and traversed West to descend. In the afternoon we ended the day at the snack bar Les Marmottes with a delicious meal and listened to the storm coming in as scheduled.

Julien, Gorm and Ulrika after a tasty "after climb" snack just in time!

Aosta and "airy" Machaby slabs
Instead of grooming on the french wet side of the Mont Blanc mountain massif, we escaped to Italy and Aosta. Together with Eva Eskilsson, parts of her family, Wolfgang Huber, and Nikos Hadjis, we drove to Machaby in the Aosta Valley.

The great granite slabs of Machaby offers up to 11 pitches of climbing, bolted and at parts quite adventurous climbing! It was great to go climbing on dry rock and so good to come to a new place. The slabs offered good climbing and sometimes long run-outs. It was fun and exciting to find myself standing 8-10 meters above the last bolt and feel the exposure...

The granite slabs of Machaby in the Italian Aosta valley

Ulrika enjoying the climbing

Wolfgang Huber entering the steeps

Extra spice
We had chosen an easier grade 5 route: the extra spice given was definitely the "air" between the quick-draws, at times quite exhilarating!

Climbing in Machaby can offer most climbers a push of the the mental limits. The rock quality is excellent and despite the exposition, I never felt unsafe. But it is quite exciting when you look up knowing that somewhere up there is your next pro, but you just can't see it!

We had a fun and social day with a lot of talking and chatting with the others on the neighbor routes. The view from the wall over the Aosta valley was beautiful and Machaby is definitely a place I will return to.

I'm having a good time on the Macahby slabs, picture by Wolfgang Huber

Ulrika, big smile!

After a good day of climbing in Aosta, we had ice cream, bought Italian grocery and drove back to Chamonix.

Here are some more pictures from the Chamonix-Aosta part of the summer. It proved to be a good solution to turn the eyes onto Italy, so good that we decided to abandon the Mont Blanc massif and drive back into the tunnel... To be continued!