Romsdalen climbing and legendary ascents

I've come to Romsdalen - the alpine heart of Norway. Some would even categorize Romsdalen as one of the most important alpine areas in Europe. This area in the mid-part of Norway is not only home to the impressive, yet intimidating Troll Wall - the whole region can make any climber and mountaineer go wild! 

It was time for the annual highlight of Norwegian mountain events: "Norsk Fjellfestival", a mountain festival that gathers climbers and mountaineers from all over Norway for a week of alpine activities and opportunities for guided climbs to the most popular peaks in Romsdalen. The village Åndalsnes is the center of the festival, but the actual adventures take place on many of the majestic mountains found in an area of 30 km or less from Åndalsnes.

The village Åndalsnes is the entrance to the valley Romsdalen (photo from http://niffen.trykker.com/)

Romsdalen is a special place. With an incredible terrain of steep spectacular mountains, Romsdalen has drawn the interest from an international audience even long before mountain Matterhorn in Switzerland had its first ascent (1865).

The prominent mountain Romsdalshorn proudly reaches up to the sky like a tower seen from the valley below. Its first ascent took place already in 1828 when two Norwegian locals found the way up "Hall's couloir", later on named by the Danish pioneer climber Carl Hall.

Romsdalshorn seen from Vengedalen valley

Kristin on her way to reach the top of Romsdalshorn

Legendary climbers such as Carl Hall and William Slingsby would continue exploring Romsdalen and mark their way by making several first ascents in the area. Many local Norwegian climbers would place themselves into history by making spectacular climbs and great achievements in the area. Their feats would inspire generations of climbers after and largely contribute to evolve climbing as a sport and lifestyle until our days.

The top of mountain Romsdalshorn. The cairns were built by the first ascenders in 1828 and the rocks are still in place.

Happiness of summiting Romsdalshorn! The mighty Troll Wall in the back

Guiding at the Norwegian Mountain Festival
Gorm and I arrived the week before the official start of the Norwegian mountain festival "Norsk Fjellfestival". We started working at the popular mountains Romsdalshorn and Vengetind and experienced a couple of fantastic days, but quite demanding conditions the week before the actual start of the festival.

I think that any climber, no matter previous experience and level, can feel the special mountain spirit in Romsdalen. With such a large heritage and history, the mountains are rich of adventurous stories and it is difficult not to be filled with excitement, anticipation and a humbleness as you look up towards the peaks.

The big mountain Vengetind, proudly reaching up to 1852m, a fantastic ascent.

The last weeks had been cold and snow still covered the rock faces up high when we started working. Especially the descents required extra care as they became quite exposed in the afternoon. Up at mountain Vengetind we ascended by the normal route. On the descent, we had to rapell our guests over the snow covered slabs when the temperature had turned the hard snow into slush. Under good conditions you can find a way down the top slabs without the use of ropes.

Signy enjoying the first exposed parts of the normal route up Vengetind

The snowy sections under the summit of Vengetinden

I love the complexity and diversity of alpine climbing. One ascent is rarely the same as the previous because of diverse conditions. It's like every experience gets its own flavour.

The mountains in Romsdalen often involves a long approach and many vertical meters to walk. Very often, our days started at 7 am only to finish some 8-10 hours later. The participants had signed up for the guided climbs already a month ago and I heard that the tickets were sold out only in hours. No wonder our guests were eager and motivated! 

During the mountain festival, guided climbs were offered to the magnificent and very popular mountains in the area such as:

• Kvanndalstind *
• Juratind *
• Store Trolltind *
• Dronninga *
• Kongen *
• Vengetind *
• Klauva
• Romsdalshorn *
• Svartvasstind
• etc.

On the way up mountain Dronninga (the Queen) with sections of easier scrambling

My guests coming up to the top of Dronninga with the peculiar balancing boulder behind

 The balance boulder on top of Dronninga. I wouldn't dare climbing it myself though.

Mountain kings and queens
I also learnt that many of our guests aimed to become a "Fjelldronning" (Mountain Queen) or "Fjellkonge" (Mountain King). In order to achieve the title you need to climb all 7 of the climbs above marked with an * and to take a photo of yourself at each summit.

I had never heard about this summit-hunting award before but I quickly understood that for many, this was the ultimate mountain goal. I found a movie made by NRK about the youngest "Mountain Queen"
Fjelldronninga (link to the tv-program by NRK)    In Norwegian

It gives a good view of the mountains we climbed in Romsdalen.

Mountains Kongen (the King) middle left and Dronninga (the Queen) middle right seen from the Troll massif

After almost 2 weeks in Romsdalen, I had had the pleasure of guiding people up several of the popular Romsdalen mountains as well as getting to know the area even better myself. Seeing the mountains from different aspects and by climbing the neighbour peaks, gives you a nice overview of an area.

It is not hard to understand why people have traveled from all over the world to come climbing and exploring the mountains around Romsdalen. The tales of adventure seem endless.

Arnstein realized his long time dream of climbing Romsdalshorn, I was happy to share the moment

Petter Jenset (right) and our group at Dronninga

Gorm looking up to Bispen mountain

History - the Troll Wall era

During the later part of 1800 (1880-1899) most of the mountain tops in Romsdalen had been conquered by either Norwegian or foreign climbers. A generation later, a new era in climbing began. From the 1940s and on, the focus was on climbing the great routes and big walls instead of going for the actual summit.

With its 1100 m height (3600 ft), the Troll Wall is Europes tallest vertical mountain face from its base to top.

In 1958, the Norwegian climbers Arne Randers Heen and Ralph Høibakk are the first team to climb the Troll's Ridge, a 3,5 km long route in the Trolltindane massif which is still the longest climb in Europe. It was a remarkable achievement! They spent many days in the wall and no one before had done anything similar in Norwegian mountains.

The big breakthrough of big wall climbing in Romsdalen, a feat of international top class, came in 1965 when the Troll Wall was climbed. A Norwegian team and an English team followed two different lines up the 1100m (3600ft) vertical and at parts 50m (160ft) overhanging wall. The interest down the valley was huge and people followed the team's progress like sportscasters follow a game of football.

Looking out over the impressive Troll Wall from the top at Bruraskaret, is an "airy" experience

The first to reach the top was the Norwegian team who established the "Norwegian route". One day later, the Englishmen topped out and successfully established the "Rimmon route", a route that for years would be the most popular one until parts of it fell down in 1998 due to a rockfall that destroyed several pitches.

After the first ascents, the Troll Wall became an attractive objective for climbers, both summer and winter. The wall has seen both technical- and free climbing ascents, huge adventures and incredible feats.

The Troll Wall seen from Store Trolltind, the highest summit in the Trolltindane massif

The activity peaked between late 70s until late 90s and numerous routes were opened up by teams from all over the world. From 1998 and following years, rock falls became more and more common and destroyed parts of the wall. As a result, the Troll Wall's popularity dramatically decreased.

Hans Christian Doseth was one of the most remarkable Norwegian climbers back in the days, performing with outstanding skills and an unusual talent. Together with the female top climber Ragnhild Amundsen, Doseth opened up the free climbing era on the wall with the first free ascent in 1979. Ragnhild Amundsen also became the first woman to climb the wall.





During the first half of the 1980s, the Troll Wall gained further notoriety as one of the pioneering sites for European Base jumping. Jumping down the wall got prohibited by Norwegian law in 1986 after too many complicated and dangerous rescues and fatalities.

To climb the Troll Wall nowadays is associated with an even higher risk than back in the early days. Rock falls have more and more proved to be a common ingredient in the recent life of the wall, especially the right side of the wall has been effected. However, the Troll Wall still gets to see some climbers and during the recent years, the Norwegian top-talent Sindre Sæther and his father Ole Johan Sæther have made some impressive free climbs on the wall.

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From south, the Trolltindane mountains can be reached by walking and scrambling. Bruraskaret and the top of Troll wall left

Climbing the Store Trolltind

One of the guided tours during the festival went to the top of Store Trolltind, the highest summit in the Trolltinden massif. To get here you walk on the south side of the massif, and traverse in under the characteristic pillars above the north faced Troll Wall. On the way you pass the base jump exit "Bruraskaret". Looking out from the col Bruraskaret easily gives you butterflies. From here, you have 1 kilometer of air under you and the mighty Troll Wall just underneath.

Bruraskaret, a base jump exit and viewpoint

Base jumping is prohibited at the Troll Wall, the sign at Bruraskaret informs.

The Trolltind massif from south, the Store Trolltind is the highest summit furthest left. The Troll wall is the north face of these summits

The rock-hut on top of Store Trolltind

On top of the Store Trolltind, 1788 m above sea, you can once again look in to the impressive north face of the Troll Wall. On top, there is a small hut built of rocks. As usual, you find a booklet inside and can sign your name. There must have been many thousands of people at the summit ever since Carl Hall climbed up here as the first ascender in 1882.

Descending from Trolltindane

Ending a fantastic week
After some 10 000 vertical meters of walking and climbing, several days of sunshine and the pleasure of sharing the experience of Romsdalen with both friends and guests, the Norwegian Mountain festival came to its end. I have had so much fun and the taste of Romsdalen has become sweeter the more I've seen and experienced of the area. I can't wait to go back.

The truth is that for any mountain climber, with the objective to progress both personally and in the way of widening mountain skills, Romsdalen should be on the list. And as for working with climbing, Romsdalen is one of the most popular places in Norway, and it has every reason.

A beautiful day of guiding at Vengetind

Big thanks to every one with whom I got the pleasure of sharing an adventure.
And to Bjørn Kruse, thank you for giving me the opportunity to come and work, it's been great!

For everyone who is curious about Romsdalen, the mountains and the possibilities, check out:

• Romsdalen official page: accomodation, travel, climbing, info, routes etc.
• Norsk Fjellfestival ( The Norwegian Mountain festival site - in Norwegian) 
• Romsdal Lodge (accomodation, activities, etc.)

Romsdalshorn is accessed by driving through the beautiful Vengedalen valley

Social stances during the mountain festival

Rapping down the "horn" Romsdalshorn

I'm enjoying the great weather and the view of Vengetind behind

Sharing the enthusiasm with Kristin!

Gorm and guests descending with the Troll Wall behind.