The weather forecast promised sunshine and dry rock for the weekend. We filled the car with climbing gear, a tent, good food and enthusiasm. 6 hours later I could see the mighty granite walls of the Lofoten islands.
Colored in the late sun light, the rock walls had a golden shimmer and still, at 21.30 pm people were hanging up there. It was a pleasure to be back in Lofoten!
Like a birds claw, the archipelago of Lofoten points out from the mainland in the far north of Norway. Lofoten is known for superlatives about its beauty, its nature and stunning scenery. The islands here are home for steep mountains that literally emerge from the sea. No wonder it's a paradise for any adventure seeking vertical devotee, climber or skier.
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| Borrowed this map from Past horizons page |
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| Two arch bridges leads to the village Henningsvaer on the island far away |
We had traveled to Henningsvær, a small village situated on one of the islands in the Lofoten archipelago and accessible by two arch bridges. The area around Henningsvær offers world class climbing. The village itself is home to approx. 400 permanent habitants but in the summer, thousands and thousands of people make their way here. Apart from fishing and dry fish industry, tourism is the main business.
Summer 2001
I had my very first traditional climbing experience in Lofoten back in 2001. I was 17 and went to see my sister Emma who was working in the small village of Henningsvær for the summer.
Together with friends from our home town, Kiruna in Sweden, Emma had moved into an old fisherman's house by the waterfront in Henningsvær. I can still remember the strong smell of cod as I entered in the evening.
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| My sister stayed in one of the white houses left. The smell of dry fish and cod was always present, even in summer. |
For me it was an adventure in itself just to travel alone to Lofoten. Back in 2001, there was no road connecting the mainland with the islands, so I came by boat from Narvik and my sister picked me up in Svolvær, the main city of the Vågan area.
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| The Presten west face (The priest) has some great routes, often offering a full day adventures for most climbers |
On the way out towards Henningsvær, we drove under the mighty Presten west face and the Gandalf rock walls. Looking up, I felt fascinated and intimidated at the same time. In my 17 year old eyes, mostly used to indoor climbing walls, the rockwalls and mountains looked like giants.
The upcoming days I would do my first hand jam, learn some important lessons about how to keep warm, and get a crush on a Tasmanian black smith.
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| Sisters climbing Bare Blåbær a summer day in 2001. It was my first proper multi-pitch climb. |
My sister brought me to Djupfjorden where we climbed 5 pitches on the classical crack climbing multi-pitch and perhaps most climbed route in Lofoten: "Bare Blåbær" ("Only blueberries").
I had too small climbing shoes and lost all sensation in my feet. Emma gave me some wool socks that she had in her back pack, and probably saved my feet. From that day, I always bring warm socks on a multi-pitch climb.
We ate bread with Tuna in "rømme" (a norwegian sour cream) on a ledge and I remember how we rappelled down the wall in the sunset. The whole day had been a great adventure and surrounded by Lofoten nature, it felt like being in another world.
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| 9 years later, climbing with my students at Bare Blåbær. |
9 years later, the summer 2010
In 2010 I came back to Henningsvær, this time to work as a climbing instructor at the Nord Norsk Klatreskole - The Climbing School , run by Thorbjørn and Lutta Enevold.
The climbing school is a legendary place. I remember from back in 2001 that my idea and impression of the climbers there was something almost larger than life. I had heard many stories about their climbing adventures from my sister and her friends. Interpreted by a 17 year old novice, the stories where caught by my fantasy and the climbers became true heroes !
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| The Nord Norsk Climbing school, the café and master Thorbjørn. |
It was a great summer working at the Climbing school. I was a newly certified rock climbing instructor and not only did I get the chance to practise the teaching skills and different methods for rock climbing, I also met wonderful people, inspiring souls and got to know Gorm, a truly special person.
For me, that summer was the start of a new direction in my life, a strong and powerful change that I will always be proud of.
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| Students enjoying the wonderful Lofoten cracks! |
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| Lunch time during a climbing course in 2010 |
The BEST way to start the climbing season 2014
Lofoten welcomed us with a wonderful rainbow. A relaxed feeling of easiness filled my body as we parked under the Gandalf wall. Only a few other climbers had arrived and it was quiet. Later on in the summer, this area gets kind of crowded as it is one of the better camping spots. I chased a fox around the camp site the first evening. He got away with a Broccoli and we learnt that food had to be stored in the car.
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| Rainbow seen from the camp site under the Gandalf wall |
At the Gandalf wall you can find easier routes, 2-3 pitches, and a majority between grade 5-6. The rock offers perfect friction and good cracks, easily protected by nuts and cams. There are no fixed protection in the wall and the rock is almost always solid. We climbed the routes "Gandalf", 5, and "Tromsø expressen", 6.
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| I'm starting the season with a beautiful warm-up at Gandalf, 5 |
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| A good team! |
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| The Gandalf wall left, Silmarillion wall center and Festvåg walls to the right. The mountain itself is called Festvågtind. |
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| Hand jamming! |
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| Gorm comes up to the top of Gandalf wall after climbing on "Tromsøekspressen". |
The sun stays up until late July
In the evening, we had barbeque and could enjoy the never-ending sun light until we both fell asleep.
Again, people were climbing late. At 23.00 we could see people up at Presten west-face, climbing in the wind on the scenic Vestpillaren route. They were up for a night adventure. The midnight sun is surely a gift.
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| Nice evening with barbeque by the sea |
Saturday continued windy but cloudy.
We headed for the Festvåg area with the hope that it would be protected from the strong north west wind. It wasn't...we ended up climbing three pitches on "Fire forsøk" doing a variant to avoid the last pitch. It was simply a challenge to have any sensation in hands or feet.
The day had been icy. Gorm reminded me that last time we were here, 4 years ago, it was also a quite strenuous weather as we climbed Skiløperen in rain... Well, I'm still in love!
The Festvåg walls though, offer some classical routes and great pitches. I would say that the wall is one of the best in the area by it's style.
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| Beautiful cracks for nice hand jams at Fire forsøk, 7-, Festvåg walls |
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| Gandalf wall and the route "Gollum", another 3-star climb. |
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| Topping out above a fantastic landscape before going home |
At Sunday, we made another climb at the Gandalf wall before heading back to Tromsø. It had been a sweet week-end after all and it felt so good to come back here and start a summer of climbing.
In Henningsvær, we met some old friends, had lunch at Lysstøyperiet café and concluded that the village looks the same. With its small shops, cozy cafés and art galleries, Henningsvær is a real summer paradise.
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| Drying cod heads |
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| Heads of cod hanging in the wind |
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| A Henningsvær art gallery and glass ware shop |
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| Henningsvær port |
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| Climbers street |
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| Tasty burgers and cakes at the Candleshop, Lystøperiet café |
Are you planning on coming to Henningsvær and Lofoten to climb?
Check out these links:
Lofoten-know-how
Guide book
Buy the Lofoten guide book here
And don't miss the Climbing café. This is the place to go for a delicious Bacalao, a beer and good company.
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| Third pitch of one of the routes at the Gandalf Wall |
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| Would rather have found some meat instead of Broccoli... |
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