The wind has me in her total control. I realize my dragon is too big and I am too small to handle her. She pulls me forward like a canon ball, I'm scared. Luckily the snow is gentle and surrounded by endless white spaces as far as the eye can see, I manage keeping the balance upon the skis. This time I won the game.
This is the story about how I learned to snow kite, miles from any human civilisation upon the Arctic Tundra of Finnmark in Norway. An adventure beyond the usual.
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| Finnmarksvidda, the Arctic Tundra of Northern Norway. Endless space of white and wilderness. |
End of March 2014 Returning back home after skiing and climbing in the Alps, I felt an urge to do something new. I dream about exploring new horizons and learn something completely new.
Why not go snow kiting on Finnmarks vidda, the Arctic Tundra of the North Europe, in the very north of Norway? This is a place that has given me a blooded tooth from last time I was skiing here. The nature in Finnmark is spelled wilderness and you quickly find yourself days from any human civilisation.
The huge open spaces of Finnmark must be perfect for snow kiting, actually that is the reason why the longest and most serious snow-kite competition in the world: Vake takes places in this region.
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| Finnmarkvidda at 1:500 000 |
But there are some details to be considered first...
I don't know how to kite.
I have never held a kite in my hand, nor do I have the gear needed.
- Ok, that's not a problem. I fix the gear and I might as well just learn to kite when I'm out there.
I find myself very motivated and enthusiastic about this new project!
I ask Gorm, my partner if he wants to join me on the Finnmark tundra during Easter time. Gorm is not late to accept my offer and we decide to do whatever possible to realize this idea with such a short forward planning.
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| Packing and preparing, we find ourselves having a lot of gear, food and stuff to bring with us |
April 11 2014
After some logistic management, the help of friends and support by the fantastic guys at Surfbussen.nu I am arriving in Lakselv in Porsanger region of Finnmark.
We are equipped with foil kites in several sizes from Ozone and Surfbussen in Sweden. One Frenzy 7, two Access kites 8 and 12 and another older Frenzy 10. We start packing the gear in pulkas and prepare to be able to be out for 8 days in the wilderness. I'm so excited!
We pack loads of food, fuel and gear needed and the pulkas soon get filled. The majority of area on the Arctic Tundra is too far away from any mobile mast so there is no telephone reception to count on.
In case of an emergency situation, we borrow a satellite phone from the Norwegian Military Allied Training Centre, based on Porsangmoen. We also bring a big first-aid kit, windbags and each one of us has GPS in addition to maps and compass.
Far out on the tundra of Finnmarksvidda, you need to be as self-sufficient as possible. Weather conditions are often tricky and help is far away.
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| We bring a mix of regular food and dry food from Real turmat, dessert and a bottle of wine, it's Easter after all! |
We will start our adventure from Porsangmoen and with help from Tony and Marlen, two friendly Sergents at the Home guard, we get a ski-doo transport up above the treeline.
I can't believe how lucky we are to be on our way, into the heart of the Arctic Tundra of Finnmark, ready to start a true snow kite adventure. The previous day I tried holding the kite for the very first time. It was feisty and wanted to pull me off balance. I am quite thrilled to see what it will be like, learning to master the wind and hopefully use it as a transport for miles and miles...!
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| The day before departure, I try for the first time ever to hold a kite, it's so much power pulling you! |
Diary notes day 1-3 (April 12-14)
I'm puzzled, our journey started with 2 days of no wind and fantastic weather. I realize we are lucky to experience a windless "vidda" but ironically this time, the wind is exactly what we look for!
We have pulled the pulkas by our selves, having skins under our skis. Both Gorm and I use the Dynafit Cho Oyo skis. They are made for ski touring in various snow, maybe not for pulling a pulka on flat grounds, but they are light enough and surprisingly versatile!
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| We have surprisingly summer-like condition in the start, however, that proves to change quickly! |
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| No wind means pull pulka by yourself. Good to have speed skins. |
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| Gorm enjoying a remarkable windless day at Finnmarksvidda. |
Finally, day 4 we get the wind we wanted. For the second time in my life, I get a kite into the air!
This time, I have nothing but white spaces around me and that's good, because I feel no control what so ever. Luckily the pulka behind me weights me down and works like an extra anchor!
After an hour of kiting, I realize that we have actually been moving kilometers uphills. I have been so focused on the dragon that I haven't even noticed!
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| Learning to handle the dragon |
My second day of kiting in life is quite an adventure in itself. I go from using the Frenzy 7 to a 10 square meter big dragon. There is a lot of patience needed, especially for Gorm who has to assist me when I crash the kite. But after some hours, things are flying quite well.
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| When you hold the kite above you, in Zenith, it takes less wind |
Gorm has kited before but says that he has a lot to learn as well. The help I get to launch the kite, to get it down when wind is too powerful, not mentioning all that patience needed to deal with a beginner, is quite remarkable. I learn quickly to be happy for the coaching! At the end of the day we come to a place where two valleys meet.
Suddenly the wind picks up a lot. Our kites act like real Dragons that do everything they can to release. It's a true fight to get them down to the ground. I crash myself, the kite, the pulka and break one dragging bar...
My legs get decorated with blue marks but I keep up the smile and think that it's gotta be like horse back riding, you just can't get good unless you'll risk to fall!
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| Gorm has done it before, but even though I think he is a pro, he says he has more to learn. |
This time only the quick release of the kite can save me. I pull the emergency release and catch my breath. It's time to ski down to the camp and call it a day. I've learnt a lot!
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| Sun set kiting without the pulka |
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| Our camp site for the night, Gorm is building wind walls to protect the tent |
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| A sun charger helps us maintaining power ;-) |
April 16 day 5
The night has been violent. Luckily we built a solid wall of snow blocks around the tent to protect it from the wind. As we wake up the wind has turned direction and calmed down to a reasonable speed. Sun is shining and we are eager to have breakfast, melt snow and rig down the tent to start kiting.
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| Melting snow, a daily procedure |
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| Suonjirgáisá, 1008 m above sea level |
The stretch of kiting that we have ahead of us towards Rásttigáisá mountain proves to be magical! We fly over enormous spaces, soft white snow, in big valleys and over gentle mountain tops. For the first time in my life of snow kiting, I feel flow!
"This is what I dreamed about, exactly this moment. I feel like flying!"
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| Feeling flow! |
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| Gorm getting speed on the amazingly homogenous snow pack |
These wide open spaces in front of me takes my breath away. It feels like we can see into the eternity...
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| I wonder how it looks on the South Pole, maybe parts of Finnmarksvidda are quite similar? |
It proves to be very true what the locals in Finnmark often say: the weather changes quickly. By the end of the day we are walking in a storm with snow whipping our faces as we pull the pulka. The visibility is down to 5 meters and everything is white and vicious.
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| At the end of that fabulous day, we were hit by a storm and had to work hard forcing the elements |
We spot a GPS course towards one of the very few cabins found in the area: "Geinohyttan", a small fisherman hut that has a space open for unexpected guests, like us. The other room is private.
As we are about to enter, three old men come out from the cabin. With big eyes, the look at us, our equipment, helmets and pulkas. The men are from Finland and they are there to fish on the frozen lakes. The extra room is available and we have found a shelter for the night where we can dry up.
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| The Geino hut, a refuge for fishermen and wind blown snowkite-riders |
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| Drying up while writing and listening to the wind from inside the Geino cabin |
April 17-18 Day 6 and 7
From Rastigáisá and the Geino cabin, we head north. I feel like I have learnt a lot about how to stir the kite. Today I can actually play with it, pick up speed by applying the edges. Even when I unexpectedly loose one ski in an uphill, I manage to get it back on and can continue without crashing. This is the first true feeling of mastering the game!
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| Time for fun! Slowly I feel like taming the beast, the Dragon becomes my friend! |
But the beginners luck is short. We loose navigation and end up too close to a steep valley looking like a small canyon from above. We are forced to kite up a mountain and as we hit the summit, the wind surprises us largely. It is so strong, worst of all, a downhill on the other side makes the situation alarming! I just can't stop...
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| The beginners luck is short. I decorate myself with blisters and the pulka gets some too. |
I decide to try taking down the kite, but then the dragon pass the power window, where the wind is strongest, and I feel myself accelerate down the mountain in comet speed. It just can't end well...
Pull the emergency release the wrong way, I crash and with an outrageous power, I'm dragged down the mountain, pulka upside down. Then I manage to pull the release. I now call it "the catapult". Game over.
The kite spins down and all lines get messed up. Luckily I am not hurt, apart from some scratches and a chocked soul.
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| Strong winds, too strong for our kites and courage... |
Gorm barely manages to get away without crashing. His GPS shows that he had a max speed of more than 50 km/h over the mountain top. That wind force came so quickly! We had no idea what waited.
There is nothing to do but to make camp down the valley, we have to sort out the kites...
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| In Norwegian it is called "Kjempefloke", it calls for patience. |
The lines are all messed up and it will take hours to get them straight. I'm exhausted after the ride and it feels alright to set camp. We are surprised to find out that we actually get telephone reception here from a Finnish network.
Maybe the fact that I crashed so heavily is luck after all. As we call home for a weather report and "Happy easter" wishes, we learn that a big storm will arrive late the upcoming day. With wind power over Gale force, the Finnmark tundra will basically boil. The storm is forecasted to last for at least 2 days. What do we do?
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| The Dynafit skis are also excellent as poles to the tent and with a wind wall around it, we are prepared for the night! |
Our smallest kites have the sizes 7 m and 8 m. We will risk to fly into the sky if passing the mountains tomorrow so we'll simply need to stay in the valleys. We have to options: get off the mountain or to dig a snow bivouac as a secure shelter and wait until the storm has passed...
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| Sorting the lines is a mission in itself. Pulling the "catapult" has it's down side... |
It turns out that a collegue to Gorm, Ernst and his family are planning to go with snowmobile/ski-doo to fish on a lake some 25 km from where we are. If we get there tomorrow, we can hitch-hike with them to Kunes and get off the mountain before the storm hits. It sounds like a good plan.
If we get the lines sorted out, we can hopefully kite the next day.
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| The camp site toilet. |
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| Beautiful camp! |
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| Happy easter! We brought a bottle of wine and Tacos to celebrate. |
The upcoming morning is exciting. The weather is colorful and the clouds are dancing on the sky. We can slide down for kilometers and as we come lower into the valley, the wind gets perfect for kiting!
Once again, I'm struck by the beauty of this wonderful area. Sun spells are lightening up and giving us good visibility. We need to pass a rocky valley where I feel like all my skills achieved the last days are needed in order to navigate through the mine fields of huge boulders and sudden cornices.
But it works fine and by noon we have only 7 km left to the lake "Beskájavri" where we will meet Ernst.
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| Before we kite, we ski down the valley |
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| I am negotiating with the wind. It want's to fly me over the cornice, I rather stay on top. |
Escaping the mountain
The last kilometers are fantastic, we move fast and controlled over huge lakes upon a firm snow pack.
When entering the Beskájavri lake, I set myself a new, deliberate speed record! 45 km/hour according to the GPS.
We are met by a dozen fishermen and women. They are laying on the lake looking down in their holes while jigging for the Trouts. Ernst, his wife Jill and his son Lars invite us for smoked elk meat, grilled on the fire. Delicious.
Another 5 km of kiting is done before they give us a ski-doo ride down to the fjord. As the wind picks up on the Tundra, we have dinner in their cabin and enjoy a nice evening.
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| Jill invites us for lunch at the Beskájavri lake |
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| Enjoying a tasty grilled and smoked elk on my sandwich, mmmm! |
April 18-20, another 2 days outside.
The storm rocks the Finnmarksvidda and keeps both roads and airports closed. We are drying the tent and sleeping bags back at Porsangmoen, but I just can't end the journey now, it's feels too early.
The 19 of April we get ourselves back up the mountain and set out for another 2 days of kiting on the tundra. This time, we are heading from the Vuorji, one of the highest peaks in Finnmark, and north towards the valley of Stabbursdalen national park. We have 50 km to go from Skoganvarre village.
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| On this part of Finnmarksvidda, there are more steep mountains. We pass close to Livnas and the Vuorji massif. |
The feeling is so different from how it felt the first day when I tried flying the kite. Both Gorm and I have learnt so much the last week and as we start out again, I feel confident and strong. I can stir the kite and search for wind, accelerate and increase power on my skis. It's so fun!
One of the things that none of us can answer yet is: How do you take down the kite to the ground when the wind is too powerful?
This is the hardest clue!
Everytime we have been surprised by too strong wind forces, it has been dramatic.
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| Getting down the kite in strong winds is a true challenge |
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| A luxury when having a pulka behind is that you can actually enjoy bringing a full gourmet dinner! |
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| Rigging down the camp |
The last day on our kite adventure is no less exciting than before. We are passing between two mountains where the wind is absolutely unmanageable.
With whiffs ranging from 5 m/s to 20 m/s in no time, combined with delicate routefinding between snow-less fields, bushes, a river and rocks, we quickly learn that the kites do best inside the pulka.
The last week of mild temperatures has eaten on the snow and it is clear that the spring is approaching, also up here 500 km above the Arctic circle.
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| Spring is here, the snow is melting in the valleys closer to the coast and Stabbbursdalen national park. |
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| We are leaving the mountain plateau, one last look |
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| Surrendering to pulling the pulka myself the last part down from the plateau. |
We end our journey in the forest, finding the way to the E6 road. Here, the biggest obstacles are a couple of reindeer fences to pass.
As we cross the hanging bridge over Lakselva, the saumon river, I turn my head towards the mountain plateau and see the clouds dance on the sky. The wind has picked up again.
It's been a special journey this one...We are so happy for the experience. And best of all, I've realized my ambition: Finnmarksvidda has taught me how to kite, uncompromisingly. There has been so much fun!
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| Coming down from the mountain plateau, we passed Lakselva, the Saumon river, a bridge leading back to civilisation. |
Thank you Surfbussen for supporting me on this wonderful adventure. I have found a new friend - a dragon and kite named Ozone!
A big thank you to Haglöfs who are making outstanding equipment, sleeping bags and clothes. And to Desporter and Dynafit for the most versatile skis I've ever had.
The biggest hug goes to my partner Gorm. Thanks for helping me, being patient, sweet and smiling. Next year we'll go for Svalbard?!
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| Team sun screen! |
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| I am riding the 10 m kite my second day of kiting. It was wonderful, challenging and thrilling. |
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| The best hotel I know. |
If you want to learn how to kite,
talk to my friend Simon Jaktlund at Östersund Kite
or the friendly staff at Surfbussen in Stockholm. They have the key to your adventure!
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