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Saturday, 7 February 2015

Couloir Poubelle in Chamonix


It is undoubtedly one of the most viewed couloirs in the world considering how many thousands of people who have stood on top of it and gazed down.  Still, likely less than 1% of them have actually skied it.

Couloir Poubelle in Chamonix is despite its name (garbage couloir) a prominent and good looking couloir that provides steep skiing in a high mountain ambiance. The couloir is surrounded by rock walls and takes you from the upper parts of Grand Montets ski resort and all way down to the lower parts of Pas de Chevre. From here you need to ski onto the Mer de Glace glacier and continue down to Chamonix. A total run of about 2000 vertical meters including the last ski section down to the town.

The Couloir Poubelle is the narrower white line left with Pas de Chevre underneath and right.
The view down Poubelle from the fence only 100 m away from the top of the Bochard telecabine.

We were not difficult to ask when our friend James Thacker, a fellow Haglöfs friend and a UK origin mountain guide living in Chamonix, phoned up yesterday and suggested we'd go and ski the couloir together.
Because of a very easy access pretty much straight out from the Bochard telecabine, every single move we made during the abseil into the couloir, was surveiled by the passing crowds of skiers. That is the price to pay if going here - you are likely to feel like a tourist attraction.


James Thacker abseiling into the couloir

First we abseiled over some rocks in the narrow entrance, then the enjoyment started!
The Poubelle couloir (approx. 45° angle) proved to be everything but garbage! Fun and exciting skiing followed. Exiting the couloir itself after about 250-300 vertical meters from the top, you find yourself in the Pas de Chevre.

James and myself in the western-like scenery of pinnacles and rock inside the Poubelle.


Gorm Gunleiksrud skiing nicely between the shots

In Pas de Chevre, where the steep angle goes down and the terrain opens up largely, the snow was fantastic, soft and fluffy. Surrounded by mountains like Aiguille Vert, Les Drus and Grand Charmoz, the scenery is simply beautiful. Skiing in such an environment is one of the best things I know.


Gorm skiing in the Pas de Chevre. Mountain Grand Charmoz looking spectacular in front.

Looking up we could see the impressive giants of rock around us, the glacier underneath and at the same time feeling the wonderful sensation of riding in the fresh. This is perhaps as close as I ever get to understanding a wild horse galloping freely on a big open field. The happiest horse I can imagine.

From Pas de Chevre it was a little tricky to get down to the Mer de Glace glacier because of the thin snowpack on the moraine. Many rocks are not properly covered with snow and we had to be very careful not to destroy the skis. We made it down without too many scratches, happy and pleased after the experience.

I'm happy, like wild horses!

To reach the final ski track that leads back from the glacier and descending to Chamonix, you need to come across the glacier to the opposite side from Pas de Chevre, and then boot hike uphill for about 15 minutes. A small café at the end of the hike provides coffee, snacks and beverages for sweaty and thirsty skiers. From here, you follow a zig-zag track (the James Bond track) that exits in the beginners ski slope just next to the Montenvers train station in Chamonix centre.


James approaching the exit and the Pas de Chevre

Now, I don't know the history about how the Couloir Poubelle got its name, but I am certain it wasn't given by skiers!


Thank you Gorm and James for all the fun, pictures and great company! And also thanks to Claire, a Chamonix ski patroul lady (and awesome skier!) that I had never met before, but with whom I had the pleasure to James-Bond-race down to Chamonix ;-) It was fun.
Merci Claire pour la compagnie en 100 km/h!

James

Nice snow conditions! Poubelle exit behind me.

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