Chamonix super cracks, Pointe Lachenal

You are in Chamonix. Here, in the very heart of the Alps you'll find the highest European summits, big glaciers and as many alpine adventures you may wish. But what about the pure rock climbing, you know, vertical cracks and wounded hands type of climbing? Wouldn't it be better to just go to Indian Creek/Yosemite or even Norway if you want to crack climb? The answer is: stay where you are.

Chamonix has got the super cracks too. Actually some of the best high altitude crack climbs there are.

Through the next 3 upcoming posts, I will share with you some of the best crack climbs in Chamonix. This is something for the crack lover to look forward to, especially if you have not been to Chamonix yet and would like an idea of what to climb for a good crack climbing introduction (I didn't say super easy, nor super hard, just wonderful!).

Part 1:
Pointe Lachenal, perhaps my very favorite high altitude rock face

This time I had traveled to the Alps in objective to climb the pure rock, long cracks and to do it in a high alpine environment. That means, to approach the high altitude rock walls and to climb the cracks I had only heard people whisper about. They seemed mythical and I just couldn't wait to gear up on the white glacier only to continue climbing hundreds of meters on a golden granite wall.

High above the glacier

The thing is that french local climbers never really brag about the quality of climbs. Maybe they are just so used to climbing pitch after pitch on beautiful rock that they get blind to flaws...or? Maybe not. Maybe it is a reason not to talk too much about how good the rock is. There are enough of people out there anyway. (maybe I should shut up too...but... no :-) )

Many big cams ay!

The guide book "Mont Blanc Super Cracks" came out in 2012. This book states to be the "ultimate guide to Mont Blanc crack climbs" and it surely is a good start for the jam-lover. Of course I bought it straight away. Even though the book provides you with great ideas of beautiful climbs, it does not cover all the beauty there is. An italian duo have written the book that is claimed to offer better route descriptions for the climbs on the Italian side, however, it will give you a very good start on either side of the border!

The south face of Pointe Lachenal quickly became my favorite wall

So where do you start? You'll find yourself on one of the biggest and best playgrounds for climbing, but it's surrounded by a demanding environment and no climb should be underestimated. The severe grading from the 50-60:ies may have been readjusted to better fit modern standards. 6+ is no longer the most difficult climb. Still, it is a good idea to keep it gentle and not start too rough. There are just so much to choose...

I wanted to go directly to the south face of Aiguille du Midi but was informed that the conditions on Pointe Lachenal would be better. Ice on top of Midi is a dangerous game. A visit to the "Maison de Montagne" is always a good idea in order to get the latest updates and reliable reports. Make it a habit to pass that office.

Threatening clouds over the Geant glacier basin are signs for a late afternoon storms

I teamed up with my friend Ulrika Dahlgren the next morning. We met my other friend Ulrika Asp in the cabin up to Aig du Midi around 10 o'clock. She was on her way out with clients for a walk on the glacier. Ulrika wished us good luck and afterwards when I met her in town, she admitted to me that she was impressed by our "optimism" to go climb on the Pointe Lachenal for the first time starting at 10 and get the cabin down by 16.45...

Pointe Lachenal south face sticks up in the middle

Ulrika and I crossed the glacier as the sun made us feel like in an overheated sauna. The snow was moist and we were sweating like in the tropics already by the foot of the Pointe Lachenal S face. The topo proved to be tricky to interpret and instead of starting climbing at the Contamine route, I ended up choosing an inviting dihedral. It was quite though and I could not understand how it could be only 5+... Later on I was told that I had started on the first pitch of "Le bon filon", more like 6b-6c gradish according to various topos. That made sense. Anyhow, it was nice and we eventually came into the right route.

Apperently the dihedral was the 1st pitch of "Le Bon Filon"

We met another team who pointed out the various cracks on the wall and we climbed another 2 pitches on Contamine before we realized that the time was our definate limit. We had to get the cabin down from the Aiguille du Midi if we didn't want to stay the night on 3800m. We rappelled off. "I'll come back another day", I told the rock as we hiked back.

Solid granite rock with perfect friction

And back we came....

Some weeks later I returned to climb the route. This time teamed up with Ulrika and Gorm. We were equipped with skis so that we could be fast on the approach. It was still a lot of snow on the glacier and the skiing down was wonderful, a true highlight of the day! We had taken the 2nd cabin up early and were down by the foot of the wall in no time!

We are ready to ski (!) down the glacier

Ulrika enjoying some fast Telemark turns in July!

This time we could enjoy the best pitches, didn't have to struggle with finding the right cracks and we knew more about what to expect. We got the full sensation of the route, and had a fantastic day. In the afternoon we were once again a little bit time optimistic about the return and had to rush back towards Midi to barely reach the latest cabin down... That walk up to Aiguille du Midi is more tiring than you expect so my best advice is to have more time than your absolute minimum... 

What a great climb on Contamine and what a fantastic rock face. And there are much more to play with on Pointe Lachenal! The Piola topo has more than 20 multi pitch routes on the wall. This is definitely a place to come back to.

Ulrika and Gorm on the upper pitches of Contamine

Contamine on Pointe Lachenal is a 9 pitch climb on one of the best rock I've ever encountered. Expect up to 6b climbing on some pitches but the most is a little bit easier. You need a a good selection of cams, 50 m double ropes and the stands are bolted.
The rock wall it self is about 250m high and you'll reach it by passing over the Geant glacier in direction Italy. You'll need glacier gear and competence to approach safely. It's a climb that dries quickly and that is ready to climb early in the season because of it's south exposure and few big ledges that gathers snow. Slabby to vertical to slightly overhanging routes are found.

Enjoy! 

Contamine, I found the first pitch on the second visit, a marvelous crack pitch!

Gorm somewhere up high on Pointe Lachenal with a beautiful view behind

This was the first out of 3 post on Chamonix super cracks.

The next one will be about the south face of Aiguille du Midi. 
Hope you'll come back :-)