Rock climbing in Thailand

Welcome to Railey and Ton Sai beach!
For decades, climbers have escaped winters, work, heart-breaks and reality by coming here to climb on the spectacular rock faces of overhanging limb stone. 
In the early 2000, Ton sai was the undisputable climbers paradise in Asia. After the recovery from the Tsunami in 2004, rumors about rusty bolts and tourist trap made climbers sceptical. 

Had the place lost its charm? I was curious to find out what Ton sai and Railey would be like now. 

Full of inspiration and excitement I jumped off the Long tail boat and landed on the Ton Sai beach surrounded by enormous rock walls, almost creating a big Amfi theatre around the bay. The same kind of smells, the beach with its small white shells crushed into sand and those impressive walls. It felt good to be back!

Ton Sai beach

It had been many years since last time.
The south west coast of Thailand was not only known for white beaches and characteristic rock pillars that sticks up from the Andaman sea. This was also the home for possibly the most sceneric sports climbing spots in Asia. 

I recalled the first time coming to Ton Sai, 10 years ago:
On my way to find a bungalow that would be my home for the upcoming months, I had passed climbers hanging upside down from the Ton sai roof. Everywhere people with ropes, well-defined forearms gesticulating in the air (as if they tried to climb the sky...), Prana shorts and big smiles...

It was surely a different ambiance here, nothing like I had experienced before. I quickly learnt that life at Ton sai was pretty much all about climbing. No one seemed to do anything else and the usual daily life challenges that most people have were not apart of that life style.  Life at Ton sai was easy going and time seemed to stand still.

Railey beach with Thaiwand wall

Now it was December. I felt the warm sand under my toes as I stood and just took in the the impressions of the place that have been given me so many memories. Together with Gorm, family and friends, I was going to spend both Christmas, New Years and my birthday the 2nd of January here. We would have plenty of time to acclimatize to the heat, humidity and different bacterias... I couldn't wait to go climbing and play upon the limb stone!

I'm enjoying the beautiful 7a+ route on "The Keep"

Gorm having fun on the stalactites of "Babes in Thailand", 7a at Ton Sai Beach

Back in 2003, I had stayed all winter at Railey and Ton Sai and by the end of my journey I had climbed hundreds of pitches and progressed a lot as a climber. On my 20th birthday, I climbed my first 7b+ "Tidal wave", and before going home I climbed my first 7c. Ton Sai and Railey definitely taught me a lot about climbing technique, gave me strenght and the foundation to keep on progressing in the sport.

Training session at the Ton Sai roof in 2004/2005 (?)

Climbing "Café Andaman" many years ago

I was a different climber now. The previous years I had explored the alpine terrain and the longer challenges, big walls and traditional climbing. I had gained expereince in many ways, developed along the different disciplines of climbing, still it was some time since I climbed 8a on sport climbing. Now I was curious to see what I could climb and how it would feel to push it on the gymnastic rock of Ton Sai and Railey.

The Tidal wave 7c now

A good feeling also 10 years after!

The overhanging classical challenge "Tidal wave" was inviting. Some holds had come off and climbers now claimed the route to be a 7c. The rock was probably a little more polished than before, but I soon remembered the moves and how enjoyable and fun that climb actually is!

It recalled the good feeling and in many ways I felt it being a small celebration to repeat the route 10 years after my first time! In a way it felt like being a confirmation to myself: even if I climb more varied and ski as much, I'm keeping up a strong level and continuing to progress. That makes me happy!

The sceneric Railey Bay with the Thaiwand wall

Longtail boat towards "The Keep" with Jens, Lars, Line and Mia

Feeling comfy at The Keep

The days went on and we enjoyed fantastic days out on the rock, swimming, snorkeling and just relaxing in the shade. Thailand is just a sweet winter destination for a combined vacation/climbing journey.

Gorm has just arrived in Thailand, happy for sun and sea

Relaxing on the balcony at Great View Resort

My birthday the 2nd of January was celebrated at Ton Sai. It was a lovely day from morning to evening! It started by breakfast with family before they left for Norway, then climbing. Later on in the evening, my friends from Norway and Sweden joined for a dinner full of surprises! Not only had Gorm prepared a cake for me but later on in the evening, down at the beach, I was surprised with firecrackers and Champagne. It was a perfect birthday and I felt like the luckiest girl in the world. Thanks again Gorm and my dear friends for giving me such a beautiful experience.

Dear family from right: Kjersti, Marte, Gorm, Ola and Ole-Vidar. U R Wonderful people!

B-day happiness!

Birthday party evening

B-day surprise!

The girls dancing on the beach

Worth coming here?
Despite having a little bit more tummy-trouble than I could remember and quite humid climbing conditions at the start, I still think that Ton Sai/Railey is well-worth visiting.

Tourism and exploitation has not surprisingly made it more expensive than they used to be, especially Railey. At Ton Sai you can still find cheap accomodation and the ambiance is undoubtedly more relaxed here than on its neighbor beach. However, the resorts would - in general - need a refreshment. Many bungalows at Ton Sai beach are old and smell mold. Because of the rainy season, I suppose it is not easy to keep up the standard. However, some resorts have restored and rebuilt accommodation and at the fresh Dream Valley resort, you can now also enjoy a swim in the pool after your day of climbing. Prices of bunglows at Ton Sai varies from about 300bht/night to 3000 bht/night. The price level makes it cheap to live comfy!

Jens is focused on the wall

Lars G looking strong on "Phet Mak" 8a, Gorm belaying

I'm the monkey girl :-)

Thanks to all the re-bolting that has taken place the last couple of years, the area will continue to be an enjoyable site for climbers. For every one else, those beautiful beaches, the sun and gentle breeze, tasty food and the dreams of "the perfect holiday", will surely keep attracting people to come. Let's just hope that the locals manage to keep the area nice and that tourists understand the importance of respecting the nature and sea.

I wonder what the place will be like in another 10 years time? Maybe I'll have to go back and take a look? And of course, to re-climb the Tidal wave!

You can contribute to the re-bolting fund in Thailand and also read more about the good work here: Titanium Project .

Sunset drinks

Scary Fakir tricks...

Gorm climbing, Lars spotting

My Babe in Thailand on the wall

Gorm in Chongplee

Enjoying the country

Jens and Mia, 4th time on Ton Sai

Good to be back on the limbstone!

Marte and Ole Vidar at New years eve

Sweet O, we met 10 years ago. She is still a strong and talented climber!

Watch out, wet feet

Soar hands

The beauty of nature

Thank you family, friends and my dear, for sharing these moments. <3